I started this journal to track my progression of learning to surf. In hopes to inspire and share the life changing experience it has brought me. I started like most, by purchasing a 8ft foam Wave Storm (which was recommended by my brother for beginners). Formally a go to Costco gem. The company has since shuttered due to Covid 19, from what I have heard in the line up. We had to scour Craigslist, Offer Up and Let Go for a reasonably priced one. Once a $99 steal, the boards have since skyrocketed to $200-300. Found one for $160 from a honest bro not far from the waves
Determined to shake off the Ozark Mountains from my soul, I was eager to get out immediately. My older brother took me out on his signature “learn to surf” method. Starting with a suit up, land lesson, and private side by side instruction. He went into instructor mode and brought me out into the surf while pointing out tips and tricks as went deeper.
Once we were about waist high, we got into position. At this point, I knew a butt kicking was rolling my way, in intervals. But I can tell you confidently “surfing is a source man, and it will change your life.” Point Break
I immediately noticed the need for a steady balance on the board. Where to position myself correctly, to not roll over like a seal.
Kam mentioned is takes muscle memory training to be able to find the balance whenever I adjust, at any given time. So, he did’t mind as I rolled over a few times finding that required balance point on the board both sitting and laying.
It wasn’t too windy, and the water was glassy calm. The waves rolled in a solid 1-2 foot. According to the OB surf cam & Surf Report OB. For my very first time in the water surfing, I thought the conditions were optimal. I immediately realized how many muscle groups were needed while surfing. Parts of my body rarely used were in full flex. ( I am still sore thinking about it) The worst mistake I had that day, was being too far up on the board when paddling into a wave to catch it solo. After nosediving a couple times, I was able to find the right position. And with my brother balancing out the end of my board, I quickly found the proper spots for my weight distribution, on the sized board and wave we were riding. For the record, I have had no prior training up till this day. With my brothers experienced instruction, I was able to critique my mistakes and ultimately “catch” a wave on my knees. It started with identifying the wave I wanted to shred and putting in the energy to match the wave with my paddle. I felt the energy of the wave grab my board, align our momentum forward, and the rest…well, is history. I was hooked. An addict. A water man from that moment on. While still a little unbalanced in general, I knew that was what I needed to work on next. It was an amazing feeling being taken by the ocean. Becoming one with a force far greater than myself.
Stay tuned for the rest of my journey into learning how to surf!